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#11
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Time for some rather overdue responses to this thread (it was a busy week at work)...
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Yeah, I was definitely hoping for a brighter shot, particularly since there was a full moon somewhere above the clouds; the photo I posted for the January contest was taken almost exactly 24 hours prior to this one at 2 minutes and ISO 400, though I guess the clouds must have been much thinner.That was exactly the intent of this shot, Bob. Actually, letting the headlight streaks creep into the scene was an accident, as I had hoped to close the shutter before they got onto the bridge. As it turned out, with the sky getting blown out that wouldn't have mattered much, and I liked the way the headlights' side lobes lit up the creek down below, so in the end I wished I had left the shutter open for the entire train's passage. Good thing #8 was riding this guy's blocks, which gave me a perfect opportunity to try a second shot! Maybe I'll try to work with that image one of these days.
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Dave Honan Issaquah, WA davehonan.com View my portfolio at Flickr View my portfolio at RailPictures.net |
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#12
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I read that with the 5D, you can take a 10 minute exposure at iso100 and expect it to be free of noise or relatively so. At 10 minutes the sensor overheats and that's when you start having the super-noise issue. the further you move away from 100iso the more noise you'll have too. the purple blob is probably a manifestation of that.
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#13
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That's pretty much what the night photography book I have was saying. Once you get over about 10 minutes things start heating up and getting noisy.
The solution they have is "stacking" exposures to get star trails, where you take a series of shorter shots, and combine them to get the long star trails. What I don't understand is how the shorter exposures work better. After all, the sensor is still on for long periods of time, but with just a tiny gap between exposures. But that apparently makes the difference.
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Bob Harbison PNWphotos.com Host |
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#14
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I can see how that would help with star trails, but what about when it's quite dark and you're trying to capture enough light to show the whole scene? Sure, you can push it a stop or two when processing the raw file, but the book's solution doesn't really do much for situations like that in which I found myself last weekend.
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Dave Honan Issaquah, WA davehonan.com View my portfolio at Flickr View my portfolio at RailPictures.net |
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#15
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Dave,
Yes, you're right about that, but in most cases a 10 minute exposure will be adequate. In fact, I'm still not sure how you needed 20 minutes at ISO 1600 with moonlight. What was your aperature? I know it's dark out there, real dark.
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Bob Harbison PNWphotos.com Host |
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#16
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yeah i guess the gap between shots gives it enough of a break to dissipate some of the heat. stacking is something i gotta try myself. looks like a great way to solve the problem.
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