Downtown Portland with my new lens

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Kevint143

New Member
Picked up a 50mm f/1.8 over the weekend. This is the first run of photos with it! So excited to have this!


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Mom surrounded by purses by Kevin Talley, on Flickr

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Mom by Kevin Talley, on Flickr

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Haleigh Black and White by Kevin Talley, on Flickr

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Max by Kevin Talley, on Flickr

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Rain drops by Kevin Talley, on Flickr

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NW Glisan and NW 8th by Kevin Talley, on Flickr

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Bridge by Kevin Talley, on Flickr

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Beer Sign 2 by Kevin Talley, on Flickr

C&C welcome
 
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Hehe. It's a septum rig turned in, eh? You have some great light in those portraits. Nice.

Yeah it is. Thank you....

All of the photos I have posted have been with the natural light around me and minor minor work in light room. I don't really know how to use all the fancy editing programs so I try and look for ones that need very little editing.
 
Getting right in the camera is definitely the way to go. I find myself getting lazy at times thinking " oh, I'll just edit that out." or "I can fix the light in Pshop." Then I have to slap myself.

As to natural light- You can't beat it. Someday you may find that additional lighting at times can ad something to your work. I'm just starting to get my feet wet in the strobist world. I'll never pass up an evening diffusion, though :)
 
Maybe if I get more into it I might look into getting different lighting things...but as for now I just enjoy going out and shooting for fun. As you can tell with that last statement I am not looking to make a career out of photography.
 
Those are some neat shots, 50 mm lens are great fun to play with aren't they?

They're also one of the great bargains of the lens world. Fast, sharp as a tack, and easy to find well under $150 brand new from a reputable store. That lens should be in pretty much everyone's bag. It may well be clear in the bigger shot, that image is fairly small. If so, then that's great. But I feel that the viewer should be able to tell at a glance what it is, and that it's the focus of the shot. That usually means going bigger/closer, but then we're back to the whole "how to get a good shot of a nostril" problem... Hmm... That shot may well be the best answer there is to this one...

As for the nose ring shot... Well, that one's going to be a challenge. Getting a flattering shot while looking up someboy's nostril is a tall order. The only suggestion is have is to make sure the nose ring is cleary visible for what it actually is.

Love the rain drop shot! Simple concept, and when well done, as in your version, it looks deceptively easy. It can actually be more of a challenge than it appears.

Nice bridge shot too, interesting geometry.
 
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Yeah I see what you are saying about the nose shot...The subject wasn't supposed to eb the ring. It was mainly just to be a goofy type shot. Honestly I never even thought about the nose ring or anything. I just thought it would be a fun angle and what you see is the outcome.
 
Those are some neat shots, 50 mm lens are great fun to play with aren't they?

Nice bridge shot too, interesting geometry.

50MM lens, fixed? Is a 50MM better over a 28-55, I liked my short tele because I could pinpoint exactly what I was looking for.
 
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50MM lens, fixed? Is a 50MM better over a 28-55,

Depends on what you want it for? There's no one "right lens" for every situation, that's why Nikon offers so dang many of them!

So, why choose a 50 1.8 (or 1.4) over a 28-55? Well, I think your 28-55 is probably a 3.5-4.5 right? If so, the first two reasons are actually the same reason, but with different results.

1) An f 1.8 lens will obviously shoot in light your 3.5 can't. It's over two stops faster, a significant difference. So, if you're shooting weddings, concerts or other low light conditions, you'll really appreciate the 1.8/1.4.

2) The same small aperature can provide you depth of field so shallow it's amazing. Want subject isolation? Shoot at f 1.8 and watch the background blur right out. In fact, if you shoot f 1.4, you can have too shallow depth of field, where the tip of the nose is in focuse, but the forehead is a bit soft.

3) While it's probably not noticable in most print sizes, the Nikon and Canon 50's are incredibly sharp, as are most prime lenses. So if you need ultimate sharpness, this lens has it. Practically speaking, this may not be a big deal for most folks.
 
I have noticed the shallow depth of field with my 50. I did a shot of my gf and our daughter on her lap and my gf was focused and our daughter was not!
 
Looks like you will be having some fun with that lens. The 50mm is a great lens and I have always thought that each photographer should have one in their bag, you can't beat the bang for the buck with them.
Also, in your first shot you can already see how shallow the dof is. Notice how her eyebrows are not as sharp as the nose ring and even the chin appears a bit softer. It can be fun to play with, but also a pain to learn to tame it to get what you want in focus.
 
Yeah I am glad I got it. I was able to get my hands on it for $50 from a friend. I will agree everyone needs a 50mm
 
Love the rain drop shot! Simple concept, and when well done, as in your version, it looks deceptively easy. It can actually be more of a challenge than it appears.


The rain drops was a pretty fun shot. I was waiting for the Max to come and the stop had a clear over hang. I wasn't too sure how it would turn out but snapped a few and actually liked one.
 
I have noticed the shallow depth of field with my 50. I did a shot of my gf and our daughter on her lap and my gf was focused and our daughter was not!

Yes, it can be very shallow. Of course, that can be good or bad, depending on the effect you're looking for. Once you realize the issue is there, it's easy to bump it up a few stops and get good depth of field.
 
Yeah It took me a few shots but was able to get it pretty spot on I think....But that is what it's all about right? If I didn't want to learn anything I would shoot in Full auto
 
Yeah It took me a few shots but was able to get it pretty spot on I think....But that is what it's all about right? If I didn't want to learn anything I would shoot in Full auto

Definitely! That's the beauty of digital, it allows you to experiment and to learn. The instant feedback you get is wonderful, allowing you to adjust and change things as you shoot. Doing so will help you learn.

BTW - A general suggestion for folks doing things like that. When you're trying to learn and experiment, try to change only one thing if you can. For example, change only the aperature* to experiment with depth of field, don't also move the camera or adjust focal length if you're using a zoom lens. That will help you pinpoint what effect the change has.

* Often you'll actually have to change two things to keep the exposure in balance, for example a change in aperature also needs a corresponding change in shutter speed to compensate. But the concept is to limit changes to as few variables as possible, so you can know exactly what effect that particular change had. Then move on to changing something else, say the camera's distance from the subject. Once you see how the changes work individually, then you can start blending them together.
 
When I get to buying a new camera and lens, I thought about a camera and 25-55 or so lens in kit form, then a 55-200 to 250. 2 questions on this:
I might have asked this a while ago...

(1) for my amateur level, would I be better off with a body and small lens in a kit form..or buy the body then the lens separate?
maybe Bob said this, just talk to a good reliable gear shop and find out what they have to offer and use some instinct..

(2) tele lens 55/200 to 250, are all tele lens of this length have the same speed or is there a choice?
When I had my film camera. (Fred Meyers close out, strictly inpulse.) and bought a 55-200 Tamron off E-bay it was $75.00, The price was about the only thing that caught my eye, but then I had some issues when I was ready to fire the shutter. and that was on full auto. The camera would not fire, (out of aperature range) switched to the kit lens and could fire same shot, so obviously I had a too slow tele.
So that said, I want to find a basic all around lens for most conditions. but like some say here, you will never be able to find a lens universal for everything..right?
 
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(1) for my amateur level, would I be better off with a body and small lens in a kit form..or buy the body then the lens separate?

That depends on a variety of factors. Your skill level is only a small part of the answer. You're going to continue to improve, right? So buying good gear is a wise investment, usually better than starting off with cheap gear and having to upgrade.

Bigger factors are your budget and what you want to do with the camera and lenses.

Budget is typically the biggest factor. If you can't afford it, the best lens in the world isn't going to do you any good. So your choices will be limited by how much you can spend.

What you're shooting also matters. For example, let's say you shoot weddings. In Nikon gear, I'd suggest the full frame D700 or the D3 if you can afford it. All 2.8 lenses of course, and one of those 50 mm 1.4 lenses as well. The full frame camera allows for wider angles and better low light performance.

Shooting wildlife or sports? Then I'd probably suggest the D3S. It's a DX (crop sensor), so your 70-200 lens acts like a 105-300 lens on a full frame camera. This magnification helps you pull in your subject. The D3S also has a nice fast frame rate.

> just talk to a good reliable gear shop and find out what
> they have to offer and use some instinct..

I'd do plenty of research before you get there. The sales staff may or may not be informed. I've had a salesman try and sell me a used lens that was "a good deal" only to later find that a new one was only about $50 more. Then again, other advice at the same shop has been spot on in my opinion.

Check various websites, read up on things. You'll find differing opinions, but you'll also usually see a general concensus.

So that said, I want to find a basic all around lens for most conditions. but like some say here, you will never be able to find a lens universal for everything..right?

Well, you're basically right. Nobody has come up with an 12-500 f 1.4 lense that also does macro and tilt shift, sells for $200, collapses down to 3 inches for travel and weighs 6 ounces. The laws of physics also seem to imply they won't be developing one any time soon either.

For that matter, you can't even find a universal body. As I mentioned above, different sizes mean different compromises. Full frame does better in low light. Crop sensros make your lens have more reach, but also make your wide angle less wide. The more megapixels you have, the more noise that is generated. Ever wonder why many Nikons are only 10 or 11 megapixels while many Canons are what, 15 or 16? Nikon chose lower noise over higher megapixels. It's always a balancing act.

However, back to the "one size fits all" lens... Nikon makes an 18-200 zoom lens. I'm sure Canon makes something comparable. It's a 3.5 to 5.6 I think, close to that anyway.

That lens will work just fine for the vast majority of what you need to shoot. No, you won't be shooting weddings with it, at least not in dark churches with no flash allowed, and you won't be using it to zoom in on mountain goats on distant ridges, but for general shooting it's a wonderful option. I'd venture to say that 75% of my shooting uses that lens. I go to my other lenses when I'm in low light and/or I need the image to be as sharp as it can possibly be. The 18-200 is reasonably sharp too though, and I've printed plenty of gorgeous 8" x 10" shots from it.

I would venture to say that a photographer could buy a good body, either Canon or Nikon, an 18-200 lens, and have a pretty capable setup for most types of shooting. It's a lot like buying an SUV, it's not a sports car, and not a pickup truck, but for general purposes, it works just fine.
 
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